One Dreamy Hollow Weekend
Friday 15th - Sunday 17th June
The 4 metre Easterly swell was starting to drop to a reasonable 1.6 metres the beachys could handle, the wind and rain completely died down and the coast missions were on. This was by far the most pumping/dreamy weekend I have ever surfed this coastal break, as the colours were amazing, the water was so glassy and clear, there was no wind, the waves were so hollow, bugger all people were out apart from the boyz - surf magazine material (As the pictures explain below).
For three days straight the boys loaded up wagons with boards and wettys and were out there scoring some dreamy hollow gems (basically to ourselves) until the sun went down on Friday, Saturday and Sunday night. This week I had been in the water for over 20+ hours, probably the most surfing I have ever done in a week in Hawkes Bay, so I thank the glorious Mother Nature for that.
It was chronic being out there paddling in to, dropping down and finding cover on these 3-4 foot heavy, glassy, hollow, beach breaking tubes and seeing all the boys tucking in and frothing out. Even not making the wave and getting closed out on, chewed up, held down and beaten in these conditions you just had to come up laughing. For the crew to be out there for hours on end, catching a number of waves you can't even keep count of and then stumbling up the beach as your body is that exhausted your legs and arms are starting to cramp up - there is no better feeling - time to wet the throat with a cold one.
I was stoked with the stills I captured of these amazing sessions - from both the air using the GoPro Karma Drone and on the inside/in the barrel running the Hero 6 & 4 with the bite mount. As you can see below the waves were perfect and the boys were shredding.
Until the next swell... (Hopefully this weekend - A solid South Easterly is forecast so fingers crossed - Yehaaa!!)
This was most defiantly a weekend to remember - Churs to the legends that made it that much better.